Words by Rivers King
Winter in California has a way of lingering, cold mornings, waiting for summer to come back around. Baja has always been our way out!
Our first trip down south hooked us and ten years later, it’s never left the calendar. No set dates, no strict plans. We go when the weather turns cold and stay guided by swell, wind, and what feels right.
We always travel with our truck and camper. Our little home opens up like a Mary Poppins bag doubling as a kitchen, bedroom, and surf shack. If you ever want to make the drive to Baja, here is our list of essentials, some obvious, some unique to camping in Baja:
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Surf essentials (boards, wax, ect.)
- Seea Suits (Duhh, but also good for surf and sun protection)
- Lighters (bring more than one, they vanish)
- Garden gloves (this will make sense later)
- Dust pan (because… sand always wins)
- Fly swatter!
- Headlamps / headlights
- Spare tire (never optional — be prepared)
- Koozies to keep Tecates cold
- Campfire Chair
- Cards, dice, and games/Paper and pencils for drawing when the wind picks up
- Fishing poles (there is nothing better than fresh fish!)
Once on the road, my favorite part is letting go of timelines altogether. When it feels right, you pack up, point the truck south, and enjoy the drive just as much as the destination.
Crossing from the Pacific side of Baja to the Sea of Cortez is one of the most underrated parts of the trip. There is no stretch of road you want to sleep through. The scenery completely changes!
The Pacific side casts vistas of rugged coastline, with incredible surf, and my favorite part, the cardón cactus. Driving through the massive cactus forests never gets old! These towering giants, Pachycereus pringlei, the largest cactus in the world, reach up to 60 feet tall! They line the central peninsula and the Pacific coastal stretches.
Inland from the coast or in 'The Transition', there are cacti everywhere, low mountain ranges, and San Ignacio, an oasis in the middle of the desert. There are SO MANY palm trees and fresh water, a captivating surprise in a place you wouldn’t expect it! We always stop for a margarita and fresh tortillas, making it a good reset point on the drive.
Sea of Cortez side, Bahía Concepción, totally switches scenery. Turquoise water, white sand beaches, calm, and protected bays meet vast desert rolling straight into the sea
A lesson in Baja, there is no 'are we there yet' because the drive is just as an exiting as the destination. The contrasting landscapes make the trip feel layered and not rushed. We are not just chasing waves but enjoying moving through the drastic and captivating landscapes.
Days in Baja are spent daydreaming as we drive, surfing endless breaks, fishing, and exploring the vast landscapes. One of my favorite stops is for tortillas! There’s a small tortillería in San Ignacio that we never skip, “Torillaria Pueblo Nuevo”. They make tortillas fresh and hand them over hot, straight from the press. Soft, stretchy, and so good!!! They barely make it back to the truck before they are gone. They’re essential for meals and just as essential rolled up and eaten plain on the road. I think about them all year!
And then there are the dogs! You say hello to one, and suddenly you have a companion for the afternoon, maybe longer. They’re super friendly and hard to resist. Don’t be surprised if one decides you’re their person and follows you everywhere… even running after your truck for miles as you leave town. We always come back home , almost having adopted a dog! (Our friends have fully adopted one.)
The key to surfing in Baja is a four wheel drive truck that can get you to the endless surf breaks! Once at the beach, sunscreen is key. During peak hours of the day, the sun beats down. We lean towards morning or evening sessions when the sun is at bay and the wind dies down. Sitting out in the water at sunset, looking out over the sunburnt mountains, is an incredible, otherworldly beauty!
When the sun sets, we reap the benefits of daylight's gifts by eating fish, drinking Tecate, telling stories, and building a fire fueled by agave.
If you’re camping in Baja, agave is key. Most of the agave you’ll find for fires is along the northern Pacific coast, from near the U.S. border down past Ensenada and toward areas like El Rosario. Look for the dead, brown agave plants; they’re easiest to pull up and burn the best. This is where the garden gloves come in! Agave is sharp and spiky. Strap a few to the truck, stock up if you’re staying in one spot for a few nights, and you’ll have the best campfires.
Baja is a place that I always come back to, an oasis, a refuge from winter, a marker of time, and a place that is also timeless. To experience it is to love it; all is quirks and immense beauty. Until next year, I will be dreaming of returning south.
