Into the Mentawais: Emily Puy

Into the Mentawais: Emily Puy

Guided by Emily Puy, Seea traveled from sunny Southern California with its rolling points to the captivating and revered reef breaks of the Mentawais. Emily first explored the Mentawais as a tourist drawn by the promise of dream waves, but she chose to make it her home because of the warmth of the people and present lifestyle. Emily now runs Vaya Mentawai, her surf resort, with the hope of sharing the awe-inspiring waves and culture with anyone open to adventure. 

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Pronoia — The Universe Conspires In Your Favor Reading Into the Mentawais: Emily Puy 10 minutes

1. How did your childhood, growing up in France and in the mountains, influence your taste for adventure?

I grew up in the French Alps, so being outdoors was a huge part of my childhood. I spent most of my time skiing, snowboarding and exploring the mountains. I think growing up in that environment gave me a real appreciation for nature and adventure from an early age.

Later, I moved to the southwest of France, where surfing became a big part of my life. Between the mountains and the ocean, I was always drawn to places that made me feel small and connected to nature. Looking back, I think that naturally led me toward travel and eventually toward a life in Indonesia.

2. How did you first find your way to the Mentawais? What did it feel like when you first got to the island?

The first time I came to the Mentawais was actually as a guest at another surf camp. I had heard about the waves for years and, to be honest, I was a little intimidated by their reputation. Before coming, I spent time surfing other destinations and building confidence because I wanted to make sure I was ready.

When I finally arrived, I didn't really know what to expect. What struck me immediately wasn't just the quality of the waves, but how many different waves there were packed into such a small area. Every day felt like discovering a completely new playground. One day we'd surf a long playful left, the next a fast hollow right, and then something completely different again.

Of course, the surf was incredible, but what really stayed with me was the combination of everything: the waves, the beauty of the islands, the remoteness, and how welcoming the people were.

After that first trip I continued travelling and surfing around the world, but I kept coming back here. There are incredible waves in many places, but for me the Mentawais have a unique combination of world-class surf, stunning nature and genuinely kind people.

Emily taking one of the Vaya Mentawai boats out to the break.

3. What does daily life look like here compared to where you grew up in France?

In France, life felt much more structured and driven by schedules. Here, life is completely shaped by the ocean: the tides, the swell, the wind, the boats, the ferries and even the supplies arriving on the island.

Living here has also completely changed my relationship with time. In the West, a two-hour delay can feel like a disaster. Here, if a storm comes and the ferry is delayed for two days, people simply adapt and wait. The ocean decides, and everyone adjusts.

It's a very different way of living, but it's also one of the things I love most about island life. You learn to let go of the illusion that you control everything.

4. You mentioned being intimidated by the ocean in Indonesia. How did you find your confidence and know you were ready to take the next step in your surfing journey? 

Before my first trip to the Mentawais, I was definitely intimidated. From Europe, the Mentawais almost feel mythical. You hear stories about perfect reef breaks and powerful waves, and you wonder if you're really ready for it.

That's actually why I waited. I did other surf trips first and wanted to build enough confidence before coming here.

Once I arrived, I realized that progression happens step by step. You don't paddle straight out to the biggest wave in the archipelago. You watch, you learn, you surf waves that suit your level, and little by little your confidence grows.

A wave like Bankvaults is a good example. The first few times I saw it, I was mostly watching and trying to understand what I was looking at. Then one day I paddled out. I caught a few waves. I came back another day. Then another. As I became more comfortable, I started surfing it in bigger conditions and on bigger swells. Little by little, a wave that once felt intimidating became a wave I knew and enjoyed surfing.

Surfing in Indonesia has taught me a huge amount of respect for the ocean. Most waves break over reef, and conditions can change quickly. You learn very fast that the ocean is always in charge.

Living on an island reinforces that feeling even more. The ocean doesn't just dictate the surf, it dictates daily life. If there's a storm, plans change. If boats can't run, you wait. It constantly reminds you that you're a very small part of a much bigger environment.

Emily ripping at Burgers!

5. What has your experience been like building a life around surfing as a woman in the Mentawais? How is the space for women in surfing evolving?

Honestly, my experience has been overwhelmingly positive.

When I first moved here, I wasn't entirely sure what to expect. There are still stereotypes in surfing, and I knew I would be one of the few women involved in running a surf camp in the area. But I've been incredibly well received, both by the local community and by other camp owners, surfers and guests.

Of course, there will always be a few people who are surprised to see a woman running a surf operation, but that usually disappears very quickly once they arrive and see the team around me.

One of the best parts has been meeting so many amazing women in surfing. There are more female surfers, guides, photographers and professionals in the industry than ever before. The level of women's surfing has progressed incredibly fast in recent years, and it's exciting to see more women charging waves that were once considered exclusively male territory.

There's still progress to be made, but the evolution is definitely happening.

Emily getting a great right at Nipusi.

6. What has it been like living in a place that is so different from your home in France, and how did you integrate into that culture?

Moving here was obviously a huge change, but I think the key was staying curious and being willing to adapt rather than expecting things to work the way they did back home.

Living here means sharing daily life with people from very different backgrounds, learning Bahasa Indonesia, understanding local customs and accepting different ways of seeing the world.

What made the transition easier is how welcoming people are. The Mentawai community has a very strong sense of hospitality. People genuinely want to share their culture and make you feel at home, which makes integration feel much more natural.

7. What do you wish visitors understood about the Mentawai people and culture before arriving? How can people be respectful surf tourists?

Most people come to the Mentawais because of the waves, which is completely understandable. But there is a whole culture behind these islands that deserves just as much attention.

One of the most powerful moments for me was the traditional blessing ceremony we held before opening Vaya. It made me realize that this place isn't just a surf destination. There are traditions, beliefs and a deep connection to the land and ocean that have existed long before surfers arrived.

The best way to be a respectful visitor is to stay curious, be humble, and remember that you're a guest in someone else's home. Take the time to learn a few words of Bahasa, interact with local people, and appreciate everything beyond the surf. The experience becomes so much richer when you do.

8. How did you decide to start Vaya Mentawais? What does Vaya represent to you beyond being a surf destination?

After spending more and more time in the Mentawais, an opportunity came up to be part of a new surf camp project. It felt like the right place and the right moment, so I decided to take the leap.

What attracted me wasn't just the surf. It was the lifestyle, the people and the feeling of being disconnected from the noise of everyday life.

For me, Vaya is about creating a place where people can slow down, reconnect with nature and experience the Mentawais in a meaningful way. Of course, surfing is at the heart of it, but it's also about the atmosphere, the people you meet, the conversations after a surf, and the feeling of being completely present in the moment.

One of the most rewarding parts of building Vaya has been seeing the impact that this place can have on people. Day to day, we're often focused on logistics, forecasts, boats, food deliveries and all the little details that come with running a remote surf camp. Sometimes you forget how special the experience is from a guest's perspective.

Then someone writes to you after their trip and says that the experience changed their life, helped them reconnect with what matters, or gave them a perspective they had been missing. Those moments are incredibly rewarding and remind us why we do this in the first place.

Emily and Kira Crage relaxing between sessions at Vaya Mentawai.

9. Was there a moment when you realized the Mentawais had become home?

It happened gradually rather than through one specific moment.

But I remember going back to France after spending several months here and catching myself referring to the Mentawais as "home" in conversations. That's when I realized something had changed.

Another realization was how sad I felt when leaving. At some point, I wasn't just leaving a place anymore. I was leaving people I genuinely cared about. Coming back felt like returning to a second family.

10. What do you hope for the future of the Mentawais?

I hope the Mentawais can continue developing in a way that protects what makes them special.

The waves will always attract people, but I hope the incredible nature, culture and sense of community remain at the heart of the experience. I would love to see more opportunities created for local communities and more awareness around protecting the environment.

Most of all, I hope the Mentawais remain a place that feels preserved and a little bit outside of time. One of the things that makes these islands so special is that life still follows the rhythm of nature and the ocean. I hope that feeling is never lost.

The Mentawais are one of the most extraordinary places I've ever been, and I hope future generations will still be able to experience that same sense of wonder when they arrive here for the first time.

Thank you to Emily Puy and the entire team at Vaya Mentawai for being eternally kind and welcoming us into their home. Emily, you inspire us with your sense of adventure and open heart!

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